Breakfast, as usual when we stay with Steven and Sherry, was at the Star Café, a few minutes from their flat, which serves a huge variety of reasonably priced breakfasts. From experience we knew that breakfast here relieved us of the necessity of the interrupting the day by the having to look for somewhere to eat. A Star Café breakfast satisfies for several hours.
Afterwards we staggered bloatedly to Finsbury Park tube station and thenceforth to London Bridge, adjacent to Borough Market. We had passed the market often on previous visits to London, but never explored the stalls selling a wide variety of food, not just a huge variety of fruit and vegetables, but also spices, teas, smoothies, beers, ciders, meats and cheeses. Chantal and I were more interested in the photo opportunities than exploring the international cuisine in the context of catering, but nevertheless, as a cheese enthusiast, I was keen to investigate the wide variety of English cheeses, and perhaps find one that I haven’t tried before. I was disappointed. There were lots of French cheeses. We found some very friendly purveyors of a large selection of Swiss cheeses.

But we had to search extensively to find the two small stalls selling English cheeses. One sold a single variety, suited for melting as an accompaniment to other hot food. The other stall sold just four varieties of English cheese, and as far as I can recall three of those were varieties of cheddar. The fourth was Lord London, a creamy soft cheese, made in Sussex, which Chantal and I tried and enjoyed and so we purchased some for later consumption. It occurs to me as I write that I travelled to Borough Market in an almost fruitless search of cheeses of better quality than those available in supermarkets, when Leicester has quite a substantial monthly Farmers Market, not to mention an excellent indoor meat, fish and cheese market. I really shouldn’t forget my local options.
Chantal wanted to visit Liberty, the somewhat upmarket department store near Oxford Street, having seen a documentary about it, and so, after a brief break for a pint and a sit down in a warm pub, this was our next destination.

As we stood by Oxford Street station looking bemusedly around us wondering in which direction to go, and attempting to locate the store using Google maps, and very helpful “marshall” or “Street Warden” approached is and asked if she could help. These are a recent, and extremely useful, addition to the London tourist scene, and within seconds we were heading in the right direction. Smart phones have their uses, but nothing beats the human touch.
Liberty has an impressive mock medieval façade, and with the sales floors on wide encircling balconies overlooking a central void the medieval theme continues inside, although the store is in fact 19th century, and the façade was constructed in the 1920s.

We started at the top, where we were relieved to find a sale on, with furniture reduced by up to 50%. A very nice single dining room chair could be purchased for a very reasonable sale price of £1500. Of course one would need a few chairs if one intended to entertain guests. Steven and I could never quite comprehend why folk would spend such amounts on furniture that, to our eyes at least, may have been of excellent quality, but not sufficiently so to justify table and chairs for the cost of a quality fitted kitchen. I suppose it helps to mop up the city bonuses.
There were some very nice smaller items as we descended the floors in a very plush, if squeaky, lift, but I am pleased to report that Chantal’s credit card stayed safely in her purse. There were, however, dozens of photo opportunities.
With breakfast still fresh in our minds and tummies, there had been no excuse to stop for lunch, and so by now we were ready for a respite. To Steven’s relief, the nearest coffee shop was crowded, forcing us to find a pub with seats to spare, and we settled down with beers, coffees and cokes and planned how we would fill the 3 hours before Cirque Solei, eventually deciding on a Thames-side walk.
We emerged from Embankment tube station into the dusk, intending to stroll in a westerly direction along the north bank of the river to Westminster. But which way was west? Well, this depended on which bank we were on. We had certainly started the most recent tube trip north of the river, but had we travelled beneath it to the South Bank? Steven-the-local decided that we must have done, me-the-yokel concurred, and so we agreed that should turn left. Chantal disagreed and said that we were on the north bank, and so should turn right, calling upon an adjacent map of the tube system to demonstrate that Embankment Station was north of the river. Steven and I pointed out that it is well known that tube maps are schematic, and so should not be used for navigational purposes, and in any case we could clearly see St Pauls a short distance away, clearly on the opposite bank. St Pauls is north of the river. Nevertheless Chantal trusted her sense of direction and turned right, followed by the rest of us, with Steven and me still protesting. Within a minute or so the London Eye was visible on the South Bank opposite, and the Tower of Big Ben appeared ahead of us on our side of the river.

This caused some confusion for us poor blokes, since we could still clearly see St Pauls behind us and the river was definitely between us and the dome. It seemed unlikely that this great architectural icon could have been moved south of the Thames without someone noticing. It then dawned on us that we had failed to account for a significant bend in the river which looped back on itself between us and the cathedral. Chantal’s sense of direction is rarely inaccurate. In fact at this point we were heading south along the north bank of a river that runs west to east. No wonder we were confused.
It was time to head for Knightsbridge, the London District that hosts the Albert Hall, where we would be seeing Cirque Soleil. After the lights and bustle of Oxford Street and Westminster, Exhibition Road, where the London Underground system deposited us, was quiet and sombre, with subdued street lighting failing to brighten an avenue of bare trees on a grey bricked road, complementing grey brick pavements, lined on one side with large grey Portland Stone town houses with steps flanked by pillars leading to immaculate front doors, and on the other side with large contemporary office buildings of glass and painted steel. The architecture was impressive, the atmosphere was gloomy. The only life was apparently in one of the houses, where the many lit windows apparently revealed an ongoing party. As we got closer we realised that it was actually a hotel, hosting a function. The hotel sign was very discrete.
The area was livelier as we entered Kensington Road, turning left towards the Royal Albert Hall and looking out for somewhere to eat. The road may have been busier, but offered no commerce, no shops, no restaurants, and no pubs. The “Local” smartphone app identified one pub within a reasonable distance, and guided us past the Albert Hall, round a couple of corners, directly to the doors of a crowded noisy pub, with no available seating, far too busy to enjoy a meal. The “Local App” had also suggested the Albert Hall Café, and so we retraced our steps, and asked at the main door where we were directed to one of the many other doors around the perimeter of the Hall, where we found a bright spacious café, not busy, serving a wide variety of reasonably priced sandwiches, wraps and pastries, and even offered beers! Perfect, and we didn’t even have to clock watch – we were in plenty of time for the performance, and less than a minute from the auditorium.

After a relaxed meal we were able to access directly from the café the corridor that circumnavigates the circular auditorium of the Hall , handing over our tickets, and being directed to our seats, the front row at the side of the stage. I had a “wow” moment as we entered the Royal Albert Hall, often seen on TV for the Last Night of the Proms, which was as impressive as expected, with six levels of seating, including the stalls and velvet-curtained boxes, with a capacity of over 5000, all beneath the impressive dome soaring above the highest balcony. Before the performance began, we had a chance to chat to one f the ushers, who pointed out the Royal Box, tonight occupied by members of staff from the Royal Household, a perk of their job. He told us that Paul McCartney had been to a previous performance, and had been particularly impressed by the live band accompanying Cirque Soleil, giving the band a personal standing ovation.
We had an unobstructed view of the large circular stage in front of us – but no photographs were allowed, even of the Hall itself before the performance began.
The performance by Cirque Soleil was a montage of the surreal and acrobatics, loosely linked by the theme of a young girl falling asleep, and dreaming. Dramatic high level acrobatics was woven into ballet style dancing routines, which included what can only be described as extreme gymnastics. All of the time the stage was busy, and sometimes it was difficult to decide what to watch, with colourful dancers on stage, and acrobats dangling precariously from hoops or ribbons high in the air. As you would expect, the acrobatics were the most impressive. Cirque Soleil is probably most famous for the ribbon acrobats, with rolls and twists, high speed descents and ascents, all performed 20 meters in the air, with no support other than a wide ribbon wrapped around the performer. No safety net. It was very impressive. Perhaps more impressive for me, if less visually dramatic, was the acrobatics undertaken on suspended hoops. Performers were suspended upside down, not by a strap, but simply by hooking a foot over the dangling hoop, with a second performer suspended below gripped by just one hand, as each performed a series of intricate manoeuvres, even swapping places. Amazing. And there were the gymnastic human pyramids, with a tiny girl leaping from the stage to shoulders of a fellow gymnast, who already had two layers of people beneath him. The surreal ballet continued all around these activities, following the theme of the dreaming girl.
The two hour performance, including an interval, passed very quickly. Both Steven and I agreed that the acrobatics had been unbelievable and amazing, but weren’t too sure about the arty surreal dancing. Personally I would have been perfectly happy for an hour of pure acrobatics, but no doubt many of the audience would equate value with the duration of the event. The company has up to 20 shows going on at any time across the world. We will certainly consider seeing one of their other shows in the future.