
A rather belated post about our Northumberland trip in May.
It takes four and a half hours to drive to Sea Houses where we were staying and so not surprisingly we arranged a break part way up – our neighbours conveniently run the clubhouse at their son’s water-ski centre near Rotherham and have been asking us to “pop in” for years, and so we did, and were treated to lunch! Chantal even found a photogenic subject – a pair of swans nesting right next to the club house, ignoring all adjacent activity.
The cottage, when we finally got there, was lovely – an old 3 storey terraced house, thick stone walls, comfortable, well designed, with plenty of room. There was no garden – just a shared courtyard – but the owner, who came to welcome us, told us about a bridleway at the rear of the house, and we found a footpath across the fields –perfect for daily dog exercise.

Sunday was cool, windy and grey. We visited Berwick, which had looked much nicer on a visit on a sunny day several years ago! But as we explored the countryside on the way “home”, the sun came out as we turned a bend to find a wide sandy beach below us, almost empty, and Tia and I walked the length of the beach while Chantal busied herself with her camera, and Lesia chilled out in the sunshine.
On Monday I found a walk from Beadnell, a village just a couple of miles down the coast. After getting a bit lost in a caravan site, the route notes, carefully downloaded onto my i-pad, directed us across a field with cows and calves, which was traumatic even though we were not chased. We stopped to recover at a pub where the coffee was expensive and the beer not well kept. Chantal dropped her favourite woolly hat which was run over by a car. And then we were drenched and I entertained the local residents as I struggled to pull my over-trousers over my boots, pirouetting on one foot in an ungainly ballet in pouring rain. The sunshine returned as we finished the walk at a lovely little harbour, with 19th century lime kilns

On Tuesday we planned a walk around the pretty village of Walkworth, overlooked by Warkworth Castle. As we approached the village the road was covered with ice following a heavy hail storm, which turned into heavy rain, and so we abandoned the walk in favour of a visit to the medieval castle, where fortunately some of the roof remained to give us shelter.

The heavy rained persisted as we explored the village, and we were forced to take refuge in a dog-friendly pub. We had no option but to remain in front of the wood-burning stove, eating pork pie and pickles washed down with a pint of the local ale (or fruit cake, local cheese and coffee in the case of Chantal), the dogs asleep at our feet. And then, since it was still raining, I had to have another half pint. So frustrating…
On Tuesday night we had visitors! Claire, Si Bess and Florence drove up from Leeds arriving at midnight with two very sleepy girls. All four girls, from Florence to Chantal, retired to bed, but after a long drive it was only polite to offer Si a beer, and so our bedtime was just a little later….

We had granddaughters, and so Wednesday was beach day! Luckily the weather had improved and it was a warm, if not actually hot, sunny day. Chantal had cooked us all a full English breakfast, and Claire had saved the bacon rind for crabbing purposes. The first thing that we found in the shallows was a lumpsucker, a rather rotund and ugly fish that we caught in the girls’ fishing net and returned to deeper waters. The bacon rind was marginally successful, attracting some very small crabs out of the shelter of the rock-pool sea weeds, but we had the disadvantage of two large dogs splashing around and closely investigating everything that we were doing. Tia felt strongly that bacon rind was wasted on crabs and repeatedly tried to “liberate” it from the bucket used to transport the rind.

I tried to interest the girls in beach civil engineering. I had as much success as I’d had with Bridget and Megan in Oz. To quote from “Melbourne – English Australia and Discovering Gold” in my Oz Blog (See Iceland to Oz above!) – “I had been looking forward to re-living times spent with Simon and Matthew digging canals and tunnels. However is seemed that girls don’t do civil engineering, and we limited ourselves to simple sandcastles.” This has now been confirmed. Granddaughters do not do civil engineering. Instead we had a walk along the beach, finally stopping under the dunes, an opportunity for Si to go dune-hopping, leaping down the steep sandy slopes, with Bess in tow. At least that is one thing that sons and granddaughters both enjoy.


Thursday was the day that Chantal and I had booked a trip out to the Farne Islands, and we were up early to catch the boat from Seahouses. The weather was cool and grey, with a gentle swell as the open boat chugged east on the half-hour or so journey to Staple Island, one of the outermost islands. We clambered out of the open boat somewhat precariously as it rose and fell with the swell, and we ascended the stone steps. At the top of the steps, were hundreds of puffins, all very confident, and close to the path. As some of the reviews said, it was difficult not to obtain good shots of the birds.
We followed a roped off route across the rocks to see a wider variety of birds, which, with the assistance of a nice young lady from the National Trust who had welcomed us onto the island, I identified as shags, guillemots and kittiwakes. And so there we were. Stuck on a rock. In the middle of the North Sea. For almost 3 hours. And it began to rain. And once you’ve seen one puffin/shag/kittiwake/guillemot, you’ve seen them all. And there was no toilet, and I really shouldn’t have had my usual morning mug of tea.

I paced around the somewhat limited route, sometimes with Chantal, sometimes without (it wasn’t difficult to find each other again) trying to take my mind off of my bladder. I tried to find a discrete spot, but even the deepest crevices were barely knee deep, and there were a lot of telephoto lenses about. It was a very bare and yet very populated island. To pass the time I photographed birds, birds, and birds, until Chantal and I settled on a rock (there was plenty of choice) for a picnic lunch in the rain.

A bloke passed us, apparently heading for the edge of the island, stepped over a rope, and actually disappeared! He reappeared just a few minutes later, and confirmed, after my optimistic enquiry, that regular visitors to the island knew a quiet spot to that compensated for the lack of more formal facilities. Sure enough, on the far side of the rope, steep slippery steps led to an unused quay, well below, and out of sight, of the rest of the island. It was with relief that I began the task in hand (as it were), but it was with horror that I saw an open boat full of tourists appear around the rocky promontory that sheltered the quay. You know those pelvic floor exercises that ladies are encouraged to do? I can confirm that, under certain circumstances, blokes can do them too….
Eventually, after a decade or so, our boat reappeared to rescue us from our voluntary exile, and take us to Inner Farne, although thanks to either tides, or other groups landing, or both, we had an hour to wait, and so circled the islands getting up close to the local seal population.


The Inner Farne Island was more hospitable with grass and shrubs and a little visitor’s centre and an ancient church and even toilets. After an hour on a boat and almost 3 hours on Staple Island the toilets were much more popular than the visitor centre – the only problem was Arctic Terns, which nested in the shelter of the buildings. We had been advised to wear hats, and now we found out why. Anyone walking along the path to the toilet was repeatedly dive-bombed by Arctic Turns, defending their nest, and they definitely made contact. My kangaroo-leather hat did an admirable job of protecting me, as Terns swooped by my head with a parting jab at my hat. Of course Chantal was delighted, and made me run the gauntlet several times for photographic purposes, even though I no longer needed to use the facilities, until both I and my hat had had quite enough, even though she hadn’t quite got the perfect shot.
I enjoyed our much more civilised time on Inner Farne, and time passed quickly before our boat collected us to take us back to the harbour.
We collected the dogs, and went to find Si Claire and the girls. They had also been on a sea trip – just an hour or so to see the seals (as far as I know they weren’t on the boat that took me by surprise on Staple Island) and were now on a beach at Newton-by-the-Sea, which not only boasted a fine beach, but also a fine dog-friendly pub, with local real ales and a landlady who owns a German Shepherd – we had to be reminded to stop talking dogs so that she could serve the rest of the party.


On our last full day Si suggested a coastal walk to Dunstanburgh Castle, inaccessible by road. The weather was perfect, the scenery gorgeous, the castle interesting – maybe more to me than younger members of the party, but there were lots of steps and levels in the ruins to explore. Afterwards we visited the nearby small coastal village of Craster, where once again Si proved to have an working knowledge of the local licensing trade, finding us a lovely pub with a garden that had views across the harbour to Dunstanburgh Castle. I would have liked to visit the herring smoke-house close to the pub, and maybe purchase a kipper or two, but unfortunately it was closed. Nevertheless the smoking of the fish continues, and the smell reminded of my days working on a fish farm, where we hot-smoked trout, and cold-smoked salmon.


On Saturday we were loath to part and go our separate ways, and so we visited Alnwick, just a few miles south and on both our routes home. We explored the town, where Bess and Florence were delighted to get a wave from Princess Elsa from Frozen (err….I’ve just had to Google “Who is the blue princess from Frozen”…), who was enjoying a drink in front of a pub – presumably part of a Hen Party. Claire and Si introduced us to Barter Books, the biggest second hand bookshop that I have ever visited – paradise for me! It was originally Alnwick Station, and has kept many of the architectural features. The “Barter” bit is because anyone can bring books in, and if accepted, will get credit against buying books in the shop. I had to be torn away from browsing for tea and cake in one of the “First Class Waiting Rooms” – now a tea shop.

I could have stayed there all day, but, after buying a medieval history book (a book about mediaeval times, not a 700 year old book) I was persuaded back out into the sunshine, where we had time to sit on a grassy bank for a chat before we all went our separate ways – us to go home (via the Angel of the North) and the Hands family to go and find one final beach.
More photos in “Our recent photos”